Little Island Beaches, Get There Only By Boat

The beaches of Florida are talked about a lot. They attract tourists year round, but those are ocean beaches. Waves and sand and even drive-on beaches make Florida a unique beach vacation destination.

My favorite beaches are not on the ocean. They are far from the crowds and tourists and often have no people present. We find these beaches while boating along the Intracoastal Waterway and the backwaters of the Indian River.

boat docked at the beach
Docked at a little beach in Mosquito Lagoon

A recent trip to Mosquito Lagoon took us to an out of the way beach which turned out to be a bit scary. I didn’t really think about it at the time, but later I realized the chances I had taken by strolling through water that could have had alligators!

Photo Below: Disappearing Island is a place well known to boaters. It’s a big wide sand bar that disappears at high tide, but is usually full of people at low tide when the island is visible. Boaters can pull up at the Inlet side, or go around to the shallower back side of the island (where I took my photo). Only boats with a shallow draft, or kayakers, can easily navigate the little canal that runs along the back. And we all have to watch the tide, as it’s easy to get stranded! I think that every time I’ve been, at least one boat had people pushing on it to get it off the sand where the tide had left it high and dry.

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Feet up and floating in the beautiful, warm water behind Disappearing Island.

The water around Disappearing Island is fairly clear as is it located at the inlet that goes out to sea. There will also be waves on the front side of the island. However, I have not found many shells here.

Like the beautiful Disappearing Island, some beaches in the backwater are underwater when the tide is in. But backwater beaches can be mucky and suck you in like quicksand. Others are encrusted with oysters, and boaters have to be careful of that. Oyster shells can tear up a boat hull, and your bare feet! It’s one reason I always wear water shoes.

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Low tide in the backwaters

These backwater areas are wonderful for view nature. We always see interesting birds, and have found live horse conchs on shallow sandy areas like this. Other shells that are regularly seen are the Shark’s Eye and Crown Conch.

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Oysters and mud and lots of shells with hermit crabs inside!

I found a lot of pear whelks in this area, and watched hermit crabs scurry along in the shallow water.

The beach below is also on an island near Ponce Inlet. It is across from Disappearing Island. I found some unique little seashells here and saw a lot of shore birds.

Royal Terns
Royal Terns on island beach near Ponce Inlet

An island we always pass backs up to the main waterway. Sometimes boats are docked here, but if they aren’t, we stop. I love to walk along the entire beach and have found some awesome shells here. Some I kept, but most had to go back due to the fact that they were homes to hermit crabs.

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One of my favorite backwater beaches to explore
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Tide is halfway out – good time to search for seashells

Below is a little beach where we stop sometimes to take a swim. The water is deep in that cut through, but boats can fly past, so it’s best to keep an eye out. Also the current is strong in the pass.

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This is a good place to stop for a swim
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Low tide with clouds building, which means thunderstorms soon

Summer months in Florida bring afternoon thunderstorms. The heat of the day causes clouds to form over land and those clouds will build and build. They can suddenly turn dark and pour rain, but the dangerous thing is the lightning. Boaters have to be vigilant so we won’t get stranded out on the water in a bad storm.  Even a storm far off in the distance can be dangerous.  It doesn’t have to be raining either!

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Some backwater “beaches” only appear at low tide and they can be mucky.

I do love the ocean beaches, such as New Smyrna Beach, but island beaches also have a lot to offer.  Locals with a boat have the ability to enjoy the real, wild Florida.  Except for the high rise condos in the distance, it would be easy to believe I was truly in the wilderness.

One Day I Found a Giant Red Hermit Crab

One day while searching the islands at high tide, I came across the only red hermit crab I have ever seen. He was big, and living in a very broken crown conch shell.

Have you ever seen a giant red hermit crab? Me neither until, well, one day I did! I got some great photos, so read on.

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Giant Red Hermit Crab found in the Indian River

The Story of the Big Red Hermit Crab

We went out on the boat yesterday, my son and I, and ended our day at Three Sisters, which is a group of three islands in the Indian River backwaters. The tide was coming in so there was no sand showing, but it was shallow enough to walk and search for shells.  We were the only ones there until a pontoon boat with a family aboard pulled up as we were leaving.

Three sisters saltwater islands at low tide on the Indian River.
High tide means no sand showing at Three Sisters

While walking the shallows, I came across this rather large shell.  It was moving so I figured a hermit crab was inside, but I could see something red and the hermits I see are never red.    The shallow water was very murky.  I didn’t have a clear view, so thought maybe it was a living mollusk. Horse conchs are this color.  I had to investigate.

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Tiny bit of red on this underwater seashell – I’m curious

Some conchs can be brightly colored like the horse conch I once found.   That was my best guess … until I picked it up!

red crab underwater
I needed a closer look

The camera captured a clearer image because in reality I was dealing with moving water and the glare of sunlight.

It is seldom ever that I find an empty shell out on the river. Something is always inside. The ends of the shell are always the safest for grabbing so the crab won’t pinch me. And it’s a good thing I was careful because look what I pulled up from the sea!

In all my time out walking the shallows of the Indian River backwater I have never seen a red hermit crab.  I took a couple of quick photos and put him down.  Usually the hermit crabs I see retreat back into the shell when picked up.  Not this guy… he was bold.  I didn’t want to bother him, so I put him and his broken Crown Conch shell back down. In fact, if his shell hadn’t been broken, so I could see a little bit of his color, I may have passed it by assuming it was just another typical hermit crab.

I had to look this one up when I got home and found some info by a writer (who is from New Smyrna Beach) and says they are native to Florida but “not often seen”.

Then I checked my Florida’s Living Beaches book and found that these crabs live on reefs and are “beached after storms”.
There are no reefs in the Indian River and this red crab must have been far from his home.  His shell was pretty broken.  I’m thinking he must have been searching for a better shell to live in.

Anyway, that was my amazing find.  It was such a hot day, and the water had to be 90 degrees.  I’m looking forward to cooler weather.

Finding a Remote Boat Ramp in Scottsmoor

While we were over on the east coast of Florida one day, we decided to head south from the Edgewater area and try to find the next closest boat ramp.  Down that way the ramps go into the western part of the Mosquito Lagoon.  From there, make your way (in your boat) across to the Haulover Canal which passes through to the east side of the Lagoon.

Mosquito Lagoon
Mosquito Lagoon West

We drove east for a few miles from Rt. 1 on a dirt road and finally came across the small boat ramp.  It has room to put in one boat at a time and the boat loads into a narrow channel that feeds out into the open water.

Looking south, the Kennedy Space Center vehicle assembly building is barely visible.

Kennedy space center
Space Center, Cape Canaveral

I found some crown conch shells and thick clam shells, but the most interesting item I found floating among the weeds in the shallows was this horseshoe crab.  It was not alive.

horseshoe crab
Horseshoe Crab

Area map of Scottsmoor Landing Boat Ramp, Credit: Google Maps, Google imagery @2016 TerraMetrics

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Boat Ramp, where we were, with Haulover Canal, Space Center view

Once we have a flats boat we plan to spend some time fishing in this area. For now, we have to stay close to the Edgewater ramp where we put the little boat in, as it doesn’t travel very fast, or handle waves well!